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	<title>Edible Plant Project</title>
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	<link>http://edibleplantproject.org</link>
	<description>Promoting edible landscaping and local food abundance in North Central Florida.</description>
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		<title>Sugar Cane (Saccharum officinarum)</title>
		<link>http://edibleplantproject.org/sugarcane/</link>
		<comments>http://edibleplantproject.org/sugarcane/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 Jul 2012 03:18:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>MirandaCastro</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Information]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Plant]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://edibleplantproject.org/?p=876</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>This is a perennial grass species with a sugary stem that can be chewed on, or refined into sugar. In North Florida, it has historically been used to make (cane) syrup.</p> <p></p> <p>&#160;</p> <p>&#160;</p> <p>&#160;</p> <p>&#160;</p> <p>&#160;</p> <p>&#160;</p> <p>&#160;</p> <p>&#160;</p> <p>&#160;</p> <p>&#160;</p> <p>It enjoys moist soil that is high in organic matter, and if you [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is a perennial grass species with a sugary stem that can be chewed on, or refined into sugar. In North Florida, it has historically been used to make (cane) syrup.</p>
<p><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/sugarcane.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1571 alignleft" title="sugarcane" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/sugarcane-130x300.jpg" alt="" width="130" height="300" /></a></p>
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<p>It enjoys moist soil that is high in organic matter, and if you can get it, clay. I have been advised to fertilize it with “tobacco” fertilizer with an N-P-K of 4-8-12.  If you just use lots of manure, you should be ok.  Make sure you have plenty of lime in the soil too.</p>
<p>In our area, sugar cane is historically harvested as the first frost of the year approaches.  The leafy area on the top and the old leaves are stripped from the canes, and the canes are buried under piles of this refuse (called shucks) to keep them safe from the frost until they can be ground for juice, and the juice boiled into syrup.</p>
<p><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/sugar-cane1.jpg"><img class="alignleft  wp-image-1572" title="sugar-cane1" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/sugar-cane1-300x200.jpg" alt="" width="224" height="149" /></a></p>
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<p>The roots will re-sprout the following spring.</p>
<p>Apparently the crop is best the first or second or third years after planting, but yields decline after that, and by about seven years tops, the roots should be dug up, and the crop replanted.</p>
<p>Propagating is easy.  Use whole canes or pieces that include at least a whole internode section (with a node at both ends), and plant them in trenches about six inches deep.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Caribbean Oregano (Plectranthus amboinicus)</title>
		<link>http://edibleplantproject.org/caribbeanoregano/</link>
		<comments>http://edibleplantproject.org/caribbeanoregano/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 14 Feb 2012 03:30:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>MirandaCastro</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Plant]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://edibleplantproject.org/?p=1462</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>May be grown in your vegetable or herb garden or as a potted specimen. The leaves of this succulent herb are fleshy and strongly aromatic. Leaves are often used Caribbean cooking and also as a substitute for sage. The leaves are used medicinally in India as a cure for coughs.</p> <p class="wp-caption-text">Caribbean Oregano</p> <p>Soil and [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>May be grown in your vegetable or herb garden or as a potted specimen. The leaves of this succulent herb are fleshy and strongly aromatic. Leaves are often used Caribbean cooking and also as a substitute for sage. The leaves are used medicinally in India as a cure for coughs.</p>
<div id="attachment_439" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/oregano.jpg"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-439" style="border: 2px solid gray;" title="oregano" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/oregano-150x150.jpg" alt="Caribbean Oregano" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Caribbean Oregano</p></div>
<p>Soil and Water: No special soil requirements are known. Average water needs – do not over water.<br />
Sun: Part sun to shade.<br />
Cold: Will be killed by frost<br />
Pruning: Pruning will promote branching and can rejuvenate an old lanky plant.<br />
Propagation: Roots easily from cuttings placed in soil.<br />
Pests: None are known.<br />
Harvesting, storage, and preparation: Young leaves have a milder flavor. Using too many leaves could overwhelm the flavor of a dish; when used in moderation the taste pleasant and similar to sage. The flavor is very amenable to beans. The leaves can be used fresh and chopped finely or dried for storage and crumbled. Drying the leaves can take quite a while, especially if they are left attached to the stem.</p>
<div id="attachment_440" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/oregano2.jpg"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-440" style="border: 2px solid gray;" title="oregano2" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/oregano2-150x150.jpg" alt="Flowering Oregano" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Flowering Oregano</p></div>
<p><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/caribbeanoregano_infosheet.pdf">pdf &#8211; Caribbean Oregano Information Sheet</a><br />
(to print out)</p>
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		<title>Yuca (Manihot esquelenta)</title>
		<link>http://edibleplantproject.org/yuca/</link>
		<comments>http://edibleplantproject.org/yuca/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Mar 2011 04:18:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>MirandaCastro</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Information]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Plant]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://edibleplantproject.org/?p=958</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="wp-caption-text">Yuca plant</p> <p>Yuca is a delicious starchy root vegetable that is grown extensively in the poor soils of the tropics. It is a tall, graceful, easy-to-grow plant.</p> <p>Soil: Yuca tolerates soils of low fertility, but sure seems to grow better if manured and fertilized. Do this with caution, as tilling manure in near the [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_974" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/yuca-plant2.jpg"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-974 " style="border: 1px solid black;" title="yuca plant" alt="Yuca plant" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/yuca-plant2-150x150.jpg" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Yuca plant</p></div>
<p>Yuca is a delicious starchy root vegetable that is grown extensively in the poor soils of the tropics. It is a tall, graceful, easy-to-grow plant.</p>
<p><strong>Soil:</strong> Yuca tolerates soils of low fertility, but sure seems to grow better if manured and fertilized. Do this with caution, as tilling manure in near the surface may encourage shallow rooting, and make the plants prone to falling over. Conversely, shallow roots are easier to dig up. In addition, too much nitrogen seems to make them more susceptible to pests like spider mites, which can devastate your crop and be difficult to control chemically.</p>
<p><strong>Water:</strong> Yuca is one of the most drought tolerant crops in existence. Once it is established, you should not need to water at all to keep it alive. In very dry years, it will not grow much without irrigation, but with plenty of water, it may just grow stems and leaves, and neglect growing roots.</p>
<p><strong>Sun:</strong> full.</p>
<p><strong>Cold: </strong>Yuca will freeze back in the winter, but almost always comes back in the spring. Freezing will make the stems unusable for propagation.</p>
<p><strong>Propagation: </strong>Propagation is by stem cuttings. Pieces of stem (the thicker the better) about 8 inches long, are stuck ½ -¾ of the way into loosened soil. They will root in and grow without additional care. We do this in individual pots and keep them in the greenhouse, because freezing will kill new plants. Alternately, you can cut up one of your plants in August to plant next year&#8217;s field. The plants should become well enough established by winter to come back up in the spring. Cut stems will last a long time in storage provided they do not dry out.</p>
<p><strong>Pests: </strong>Spider mites, mealybugs, and deer can badly damage your crop. Spider mites and mealybugs can be reduced by being careful not to over-fertilize &#8211; especially late in the season. They can also be controlled by thorough sprayings of neem oil insecticide. Spider mites can usually be controlled with soap spray at double the recommended concentration. I recommend &#8220;insecticidal soap&#8221; over dish soap, as it uses potassium instead of sodium as the positive ion, making it healthy for plants.</p>
<div id="attachment_960" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/cassava-leaves.jpg"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-960" style="border: 1px solid gray;" title="cassava-leaves" alt="Yuca Plant" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/cassava-leaves-150x150.jpg" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Yuca Plant</p></div>
<p><strong>Harvesting:</strong> Harvest of yuca is during the dormant season, usually from December through March. I carefully excavate around the roots, and clip them off the central knot of roots. The middle of the plant can be replanted and harvested again the next year. The plant should be left intact until it will be used, as the roots spoil very quickly after harvest.</p>
<p><strong>Preparation:</strong> Our variety is a low-cyanide variety. Others, called cassava and manioc, require more preparation to make edible. Yuca should be peeled before cooking, and is often chopped and then boiled for 20 minutes in salt water before pan or deep frying. It can be fried or baked without pre-boiling. It goes well with strongly flavored things like lime, garlic, salt, onions, tomatoes, or dipped in garlic sauce or added to soups.</p>
<div id="attachment_971" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/yuca-root.jpg"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-971 " style="border: 1px solid gray;" title="yuca root" alt="Yuca root" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/yuca-root-150x150.jpg" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Yuca root</p></div>
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		<title>Oak Leaf Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)</title>
		<link>http://edibleplantproject.org/oakleaflettuce/</link>
		<comments>http://edibleplantproject.org/oakleaflettuce/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Mar 2011 03:10:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>MirandaCastro</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Plant]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://edibleplantproject.org/?p=950</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Lettuces grow well in Gainesville in the winter. They appreciate rich soil, so load up on the manure.</p> <p class="wp-caption-text">Green Oak Leaf Lettuce</p> <p>You can harvest leaf lettuce by removing the older leaves occasionally, or alternatively, by cutting everything except a couple young leaves. You can do the latter twice or three times.</p> <p>Lettuce will [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Lettuces grow well in Gainesville in the winter. They appreciate rich soil, so load up on the manure.</p>
<div id="attachment_951" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/green-oak-leaf-lettuce.jpg"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-951 " style="border: 1px solid gray;" title="green oak leaf lettuce" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/green-oak-leaf-lettuce-150x150.jpg" alt="" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Green Oak Leaf Lettuce</p></div>
<p>You can harvest leaf lettuce by removing the older leaves occasionally, or alternatively, by cutting everything except a couple young leaves. You can do the latter twice or three times.</p>
<p>Lettuce will be damaged by hard frosts, but can take light ones. Commercial growers put wire arches over their beds and pull frost cloth over the wires when freezing temperatures are expected.</p>
<div id="attachment_952" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Lettuce_Red_Oak_Leaf.jpg"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-952" style="border: 1px solid black;" title="Lettuce_Red_Oak_Leaf" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Lettuce_Red_Oak_Leaf-150x150.jpg" alt="Red Oak Leaf Lettuce" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Red Oak Leaf Lettuce</p></div>
<p>In the spring, your lettuce with “bolt” or grow a flower stalk.  Once it starts to do that, it will be too bitter to eat. I recommend you let at least some of them bolt to collect seeds for next year.</p>
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		<title>Winged Sumac (Rhus copallina)</title>
		<link>http://edibleplantproject.org/sumac/</link>
		<comments>http://edibleplantproject.org/sumac/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 16:52:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>MirandaCastro</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Plant]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://edibleplantproject.org/?p=859</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>This Florida native is a large shrub (growing up to 20&#8242; tall) that produces terminal clusters of red fruit in the fall before its leaves turn a brilliant red and fall. The flowers attract butterflies and the fruits are eaten throughout the winter by a variety of birds &#8230; if you don&#8217;t eat them first! [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This Florida native is a large shrub (growing up to 20&#8242; tall) that produces terminal clusters of red fruit in the fall before its leaves turn a brilliant red and fall. The flowers attract butterflies and the fruits are eaten throughout the winter by a variety of birds &#8230; if you don&#8217;t eat them first! Its ability to sprout from the roots and grow almost anywhere, coupled with its rapid growth rate, make it a good plant for erosion control.</p>
<p><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/wrhcol2wp15444.jpg" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-861" style="border: 1px gray;" title="Winged Sumac" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/wrhcol2wp15444-150x150.jpg" alt="" width="150" height="150" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Soil: </strong><em> </em>Thrives on excessively dry sands to mesic poorly drained soils.  Needs no amendment, lime, or fertilizer.<em><br />
</em><strong>Water:</strong><strong> </strong>Tolerates drought and abundance.<br />
<strong>Sun:</strong><em> </em>full sun, part sun, part shade.<em><br />
</em><strong>Cold</strong><em><strong>: </strong></em> Very cold hardy.<br />
<strong>Pruning: </strong>Good pruning can help strengthen the structure of this shrub.<em><br />
</em><strong>Propagation</strong><strong>: </strong> By seed. It can form a thicket by spreading from underground rhizomes so should not be grown in a small area<br />
<strong>Pests:</strong><em> </em>Nothing serious.<em><br />
</em><strong>Other problems</strong><strong>:</strong> It can spread by root suckers, and become annoying.<br />
<strong>Harvesting and storage: </strong><em> </em>Harvest the clusters of sticky red fruits as soon as they turn red, before they get dust and bugs stuck to them.  They should last all winter in your house, because they do outside.</p>
<p><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/p8180171.jpg" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-862" style="border: 1px gray;" title="Sumac Berries" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/p8180171-150x150.jpg" alt="Sumac Berries" width="150" height="150" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Medicinal Uses</strong>: Various parts of the tree were  also used by Native Americans to treat dysentery, mouth sores and skin eruptions.<br />
Other Uses: The seeds, bark and leaves have a high tannin content and have been used by the leather industry and as fabric dyes. The berries were used to make a red dye.</p>
<p><strong>Culinary Uses: </strong>Whole or ground, sumac seeds should be kept in a tightly closed container away from light and heat. The berries have a sour flavor and can replace lemon in many recipes. In the middle east sumac is used to flavor fish and seafood (Lebanon and Syria), salads (Iraq and Turkey), chicken, meatballs, kebabs and stews (Iran and Georgia). It is also used to flavor stuffings, rice, legumes and breads, sauces and dips and the Middle Eastern spice blend zaatar (zatar). Not widely known, sumac is an spice that enhances the flavors of foods without overpowering them – it is more subtle than lemon. As a spice it is generally used ground. If the berries are whole, they should be steeped in hot water for about 30 minutes; then strained through a cheesecloth and squeezed to extract an aromatic liquid for use in cooking waters or marinades.</p>
<p><strong>Sumac-ade or Indian lemonade</strong><br />
Both Native Americans and early colonists used this native plant to create a refreshing, pink lemonade hundreds of years ago. Many suggest not pouring boiling water over the clusters, because that tends to leach out too much tannic acid and the result can be bitter.<br />
Place about a gallon of water in a large bowl, add 10-12 berry clusters and gently break them apart with your hands.<br />
Cover the bowl and let the berries steep in the sun for several hours or at room temperature overnight.<br />
Remove the berries, and strain the liquid through cheesecloth or a coffee filter to filter out the fine hairs.<br />
Sweeten to taste with honey, maple syrup, stevia leaves or sugar,</p>
<p><strong>Links and References</strong><br />
<a href="http://cuherbsociety.org/hotm/sumac.htm">http://cuherbsociety.org/hotm/sumac.htm</a><br />
<a href="http://www.theworldwidegourmet.com/products/spices/sumac/">http://www.theworldwidegourmet.com/products/spices/sumac/</a><br />
<a href="http://www.mvmagazine.com/article.php?21573">http://www.mvmagazine.com/article.php?21573</a><br />
<a href="http://www.floridata.com/ref/r/rhus_cop.cfm">http://www.floridata.com/ref/r/rhus_cop.cfm</a><br />
<a href="http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Rhus%20copallina">http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Rhus%20copallina</a></p>
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		<title>Sunchoke or or Jerusalem Artichoke (Helianthis tuberosus)</title>
		<link>http://edibleplantproject.org/sunchoke/</link>
		<comments>http://edibleplantproject.org/sunchoke/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Apr 2010 14:07:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>MirandaCastro</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Plant]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://edibleplantproject.org/?p=780</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>This sunflower relative grows through the warm season, and produces abundant crunchy tubers for harvest in the winter. The tubers are one of the best sources of a carbohydrate called inulin, which is a long-chain fructose polysaccharide. Inulin is not well digested by humans, but passes into the lower intestines, where it feeds bacteria of [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This sunflower relative grows through the warm season, and produces  abundant crunchy tubers for harvest in the winter. The tubers are one of  the best sources of a carbohydrate called inulin, which is a long-chain  fructose polysaccharide. Inulin is not well digested by humans, but  passes into the lower intestines, where it feeds bacteria of the genera  Lactobacillus and Bifidobacteria, two of the most important genera of  beneficial human gut flora. The bacteria, in turn, help us in many ways.  Feeding inulin to your gut flora can greatly improve absorption of  cation minerals from plant sources, such as Calcium, Magnesium, and  Iron.</p>
<p><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Sunchoke.jpg" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-828" style="border: 2px solid gray;" title="Sunchoke" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Sunchoke-226x300.jpg" alt="" width="145" height="192" /></a></p>
<p>The plants grow to about 7 feet tall, and are bushy and thick. If planted in a block, they can shade out weeds. They can form a quick visual screen or hedge. We have two varieties. Eric is more sparsely stemmed and has larger leaves. It doesn&#8217;t flower until late fall, and then it usually falls over. It goes dormant later, and has higher yields. Craig is densely stemmed and has small leaves. It flowers all Summer long, and remains erect even after dormancy, which comes earlier than the other type. Yields are a bit smaller.</p>
<p>Soil: Tolerates many soil types, but will probably grow best in rich garden soil.</p>
<p>Water: Tolerates very wet conditions. May not produce well in droughty areas without substantial irrigation, though they will probably survive.</p>
<p>Sun: full</p>
<p>Cold: Sprouts tolerate mild frosts.</p>
<p>Pruning: none.</p>
<p>Propagation: tubers or pieces of tubers. Tubers left in the ground are often consumed by voles or rot, and are unreliable, as a means of propagation, in Florida. Plant refrigerated tubers in late Feb. 1.5&#8242;-2&#8242; apart.</p>
<p>Pests: Pests are usually minor. They include mealybugs, termites, and deer. Fence out deer, and use organic insecticides for the mealybugs. Discard termite infested tubers.</p>
<p>Other problems: Digging and cleaning the knobby tubers can be labor intensive. Tubers often exhibit stem-end rot, and may rot entirely if left in the ground for too long.</p>
<p><a title="Sunchoke Tubers" href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Sunchoke2.jpg" target="_blank"><img class="size-medium wp-image-829 alignnone" style="border: 2px solid gray;" title="Sunchoke2" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Sunchoke2-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="216" height="162" /></a></p>
<p>Harvesting, storage, and preparation: Harvest the tubers as soon as the stems turn brown. 5lbs/plant is a good yield. Store them refrigerated and sealed in plastic bags to prevent drying. Freezing probably also works. The tubers can be cleaned with a toothbrush under running water, and the stem-end rot trimmed off. They can be sliced or grated into salads and other raw preparations. They can be baked, fried, steamed, sautéed, mashed, and included in a wide variety of recipes.</p>
<p>Additional references: http://www.floridata.com/ref/h/heli_tub.cfm</p>
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		<title>Edible Canna (Canna indica var. edulis, syn Canna edulis)</title>
		<link>http://edibleplantproject.org/canna/</link>
		<comments>http://edibleplantproject.org/canna/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Dec 2009 06:17:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>MirandaCastro</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Plant]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://edibleplantproject.org/?p=684</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>AKA the Queensland Arrowroot this plant is closely related to the garden canna. It grows 6 or more feet tall and has a small brilliant red flower so it is an excellent backdrop for smaller flowers and herbs.</p> <p></p> <p>Soil: It loves wet soil and can grow in boggy conditions but it also thrives in [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>AKA the Queensland Arrowroot this plant is closely related to the garden canna. It grows 6 or more feet tall and has a small brilliant red flower so it is an excellent backdrop for smaller flowers and herbs.</p>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-687" href="http://edibleplantproject.org/2009/12/canna/canna1/"><img class="alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-687" style="border: 1px gray;" title="canna1" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/canna1-150x150.jpg" alt="canna1" width="150" height="150" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Soil:</strong> It loves wet soil and can grow in boggy conditions but it also thrives in drier soils. Fertilize lightly if at all.</p>
<p><strong>Water:</strong> It grows faster and taller in dry conditions when irrigated.</p>
<p>Sun: Full.</p>
<p><strong>Cold: </strong>The stems freeze to the ground in cold snaps but the plant comes back every spring.</p>
<p><strong>Pruning:</strong> Dead leaves can be removed for aesthetic reasons, especially the frozen parts in the spring.</p>
<p><strong>Propagation:</strong> Seeds sometimes germinate if freshly planted, but usually require scarification. You can also divide clumps.</p>
<p><strong>Pests: </strong>A caterpillar is known to eat cannas, and can affect the unrolling of their new leaves. It can be dealt with by hand-pulling or a BT pesticide.</p>
<p><strong>Other problems:</strong> The tubers can be fibrous.</p>
<p><strong>Harvesting, storage, and preparation: </strong>The flowers, tubers, and stems are all edible.</p>
<p>Historically grown in the Andes as an edible starch the huge tuber was usually roasted for hours until it became soft and sweet. We have not seen this particular variety produce a huge tuber when grown in Florida. The tubers grown here are about the size of regular garden cannas. They are best used to produce a highly digestible thickening powder similar to cornstarch. Shred the tubers coarsely, cover with water and stir. Strain out the fiber with cheesecloth and let the cloudy water settle out leaving the starch on the bottom of the container. Pour of the water and let the starchy residue dry. This makes a fine arrowroot powder.</p>
<p>The bottoms of the stems, up to about a foot, get thick and can be peeled and added to stir fried dishes. They have a bitter-sweet flavor and are quite tasty as a bamboo shoot replacement.</p>
<p>The flowers are ornamental and attractive in salads.</p>
<p>The leaves may be used like banana leaves to wrap food for outdoor roasting or grilling. They will impart a flavor to the cooked food though the leaves themselves are typically not eaten.</p>
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		<title>Sochan (Rudbeckia laciniata)</title>
		<link>http://edibleplantproject.org/sochan/</link>
		<comments>http://edibleplantproject.org/sochan/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Jul 2009 03:21:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>MirandaCastro</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Plant]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://edibleplantproject.org/?p=629</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Sochan, cut-leaf or green-headed cone flower, is native to most of the continental United States. Its native distribution dips into the Florida panhandle, so some consider it native to here. It is one of the favored greens of the Cherokee.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> </p> <p class="MsoNormal"> </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Soil: We expect [...]]]></description>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;">Sochan, cut-leaf or green-headed cone flower, is native to most of the continental </span><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;">United States</span><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;">. Its native distribution dips into the Florida panhandle, so some consider it native to here. It is one of the favored greens of the Cherokee.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/tall_coneflower.jpg" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-630" style="border: 2px solid gray;" title="tall_coneflower" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/tall_coneflower-150x150.jpg" alt="tall_coneflower" width="150" height="150" /></a><br />
</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"><strong>Soil:</strong> We expect it to appreciate a little improvement in our native poor soils.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"><strong>Water: </strong>This plant appreciates wet areas, and will probably grow better if irrigated.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"><strong>Sun:<span> </span></strong>Part sun to shade</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"><strong>Cold:</strong> Cold is no problem, though it shrinks to a small ball of leaves in the winter</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"><strong>Propagation:</strong> It spreads rhizomatously and can be propagated by seed or cuttings of the rhizomes</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"><strong>Pests:</strong> None known</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"><strong>Other problems:<span> </span></strong>Leaves are usually best in the spring. Not a heavy producer.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/sochan.jpg" target="_blank"><img class="alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-631" style="border: 2px solid gray;" title="sochan" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/sochan-150x150.jpg" alt="sochan" width="150" height="150" /></a><br />
</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"><strong>Harvesting, storage, and preparation:</strong> In the Spring, Sochan produces a bunch of large leaves. It is these young leaves that are generally harvested. They can be stored by freezing or dehydration. Sochan is traditionally prepared by boiling and discarding the water. It is then fried in oil and spices, sometimes mixed with poke weed and/or creasy greens (winter or upland cress). Some cooks recommend adding a bit of vinegar. Teas and infusions have uses in herbal medicine, but pregnant women are recommended to avoid the tea, though they can eat the greens prepared as described.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><strong><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;">Additional references: </span></strong><a href="http://www.mynewsletterbuilder.com/tools/published.php?action=view&amp;newsletter_id=1409608353" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;">http://www.mynewsletterbuilder.com/tools/published.php?action=view&amp;newsletter_id=1409608353</span></a></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: &quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;;"><strong>Top photo:</strong> <a href="http://www.michigan.gov/dnr/0,1607,7-153-10370_12146_12213-36450--,00.html" target="_blank">http://www.michigan.gov/dnr/0,1607,7-153-10370_12146_12213-36450&#8211;,00.html</a><br />
</span></p>
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		<title>Chinquapin (Castanea pumila)</title>
		<link>http://edibleplantproject.org/chinquapin/</link>
		<comments>http://edibleplantproject.org/chinquapin/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Jul 2009 02:36:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>MirandaCastro</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Plant]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://edibleplantproject.org/?p=618</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Chinquapin is a small tree or shrub native to the Southeastern US, that is closely related to the chestnut. It makes small sweet nuts that are said to taste like the American chestnuts, which were wiped out by Asian chestnut blight. These are considered native to FL, but they grow differently than the locals. These [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Chinquapin is a small tree or shrub native to the Southeastern US, that is closely related to the chestnut. It makes small sweet nuts that are said to taste like the American chestnuts, which were wiped out by Asian chestnut blight. These are considered native to FL, but they grow differently than the locals. These plants can form a tree and produce a lot of nuts, whereas the locals rarely exceed three feet in height and are poor producers. The locals variety was once considered a separate specie, called C. Alnifolia.</p>
<p><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/castanea_pumila.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-622" style="border: 2px solid gray;" title="castanea_pumila" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/castanea_pumila-150x150.jpg" alt="castanea_pumila" width="150" height="150" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Soil: </strong>Accepts a wide variety of soils. It is usually found in well drained sandy soils of North Florida. It is much more common in the slightly richer soils north of Gainesville (around Alachua and High Springs), as a remnant of a nearly extinct community called &#8220;Upland Pine Forest&#8221;. Some of our poorest sandy soils, where &#8220;Sandhill&#8221; communities exist, usually lack chinquapins, possibly because of the poor soil. (Areas like Archer, Ocala, Keystone, Hawthorne, Interlachen). I expect you can still grow chinquapins in sandhill type soils, but it might benefit from a little assistance, such as water and soil improvement.</p>
<p><strong>Water: </strong>drought tolerant.<br />
<strong><br />
Sun:</strong> Full sun to part shade.</p>
<p><strong>Cold: </strong>tolerates cold.</p>
<p><strong>Pruning: </strong>The source of our seeds recommends pruning the tree to a single stem.<br />
<strong><br />
Propagation: </strong>seed.<br />
<strong><br />
Pests:</strong> Susceptible to Phytophthora root rot, and may have some sensitivity to Chestnut Blight. They are also favored by deer.</p>
<p><strong>Other problems: </strong>The nuts are small. Trees are gendered. Female trees produce fruit and males are needed for pollination. We will not know the genders of our trees until they are old enough to flower.</p>
<p><strong>Harvesting, storage, and preparation: </strong>The nuts should fall out of the burrs when they become ripe. Roast them like chestnuts.</p>
<p><a href="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/nut.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-623" style="border: 2px solid gray;" title="nut" src="http://edibleplantproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/nut-150x150.jpg" alt="nut" width="150" height="150" /></a></p>
<p>Photo by <a href="http://www2.volstate.edu/JSchibig/recentchestnutphotos2.htm">Joe Schibig</a></p>
<p><strong>Additional references: </strong><br />
<a href="http://forestry.about.com/od/silviculture/p/chinkapin.htm">http://forestry.about.com/od/silviculture/p/chinkapin.htm</a><br />
<a href="http://fruitandnuttrees.com/allegheny-chinquapin-castanea">http://fruitandnuttrees.com/allegheny-chinquapin-castanea</a><br />
<a href="http://www2.volstate.edu/JSchibig/recentchestnutphotos2.htm"></a></p>
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		<title>Sour Sweet Potato Cream Pie</title>
		<link>http://edibleplantproject.org/sour-sweet-potato-cream-pie/</link>
		<comments>http://edibleplantproject.org/sour-sweet-potato-cream-pie/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jul 2009 04:22:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>MirandaCastro</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Devils on Horseback]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Plant]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Recipes]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://edibleplantproject.org/?p=534</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I used to call this Fermented Sweet Potato Cheese Cake &#8211; but a friend told me it tastes a lot like key lime pie and since it does have more of a key lime pie custardy texture I&#8217;ve changed the name. The surpising thing about this recipe is it does not taste at all like [...]]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="moz-text-html" lang="x-western">I used to call this Fermented Sweet Potato Cheese Cake &#8211; but a friend told me it tastes a lot like key lime pie and since it does have more of a key lime pie custardy texture I&#8217;ve changed the name. The surpising thing about this recipe is it does not taste at all like sweet potato. Basically it uses lactic acid fermented sweet potato and a kefir fermented soy cheese base with pumpkin pie spices added and that filling stuffed into a premade graham cracker crust with a pecan praline topping. Everything else is pretty much decoration and flavor enhancers so go crazy experimenting with it!</div>
<p><div class="moz-text-html" lang="x-western">Just one caution &#8211; the whole point is to have living lactic acid bacteria in your diet so don&#8217;t cook this after fermenting. You&#8217;ll kill the bacteria and loose the pro-biotic benefits.</div>
<p><div>1) Ferment two cups of cooked sweet potato according to the  process for <a href="http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Cookbook:Sour_Mashed_Sweet_Potato">Sour  Mashed Sweet Potato.</a> The fermentation should last two days at room  temperature.</div>
<p><div>2) While the sweet potato is fermenting add a couple of tablespoons of Kefir and a teaspoon of salt to a half gallon of soy milk, cover loosely with a lid and let it ferment also for two days at room temperature.</div>
<p><div>3) Strain the fermented soy milk through a fine cheese cloth or a clean handkerchief and save the whey (to use as a starter for your next batch or for other recipes). You should get about 1 cup of soy &#8220;cheese&#8221; out of two quarts of soy milk.</div>
<p><div>4) Mix the 1 cup of soy cheese and the 2 cups of  fermented sweet potato together and blend in a blender or with a wire  whip.</div>
<p><div>5) Add in 3 teaspoon of pumpkin pie spices, 1 tablespoon vanilla extract, 1 tablespoon lemon extract, and 1/2 to 2/3 cup of sugar.</div>
<p><div>6)  Spoon the mixture into a pre-made graham cracker crust.</div>
<p><div>7) Add a topping  of pecan pralines (see <a href="http://www.veganchef.com/mapleglazed.htm">Maple  Glazed Pralines</a>).</div>
<p><div>8) Put it into the fridge and chill.</div>
<p><div>The longer it stays in the fridge (or the longer you let the fermented sweet potato sit in the fridge before using it in the recipe) the more sour it gets. After sitting a week in the fridge it is still good to eat and as sour as a key lime pie. A shorter stay and it tastes more like pumpkin pie. The texture of the filling is rather soft &#8211; it may be useful to freeze it and serve like a frozen custard pie. Instead of the praline topping whipped cream might be good if you are going to freeze it. And, you might just want to forget the pie crust and topping and put the filling into your ice cream maker for a tangy sweet tater ice cream. Endless variations!</div>
<p><div>One final comment &#8211; the Okinawan Purple Sweet Potato is remarkably beautiful in this recipe &#8211; change out a few of those pumpkin pie spices and add something like a half cup of whole cherries to that deep blue mix and you have a near stupifying sweet potato ice cream. Look up <a href="http://www.google.com/#hl=en&amp;q=Ube+ice+cream&amp;btnG=Google+Search&amp;fp=5OLWsa38D6M">&#8220;Ube  Ice Cream&#8221;</a> for some ideas. </div>
<p><div>Note that true &#8220;Ube&#8221; is a yam (Dioscorea alata variety) not a sweet potato (Ipomea batatas) but the ice cream is made with both.</div>
<div>
<p>This recipe is also on my <a href="http://livingwiththeland.blogspot.com" target="_blank">new blog </a></div>
<div>
<div>Dan</div>
<p><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />
</span></div>
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